Located between the dramatic Kenai Mountains and the blue waters of Resurrection Bay, Seward is a lively harbor town that is the gateway to iconic Alaskan activities. After parking our van in the multi-day lot, we boarded Cat2Fold, Happy Puffin’s catamaran, where we met Daniel, our captain and guide. With bags loaded and a quick intro behind us, we helped untie the lines and set off into the glacial waters of Resurrection Bay.

The wind was in our favor, and as Daniel hoisted the sails, our dream of sailing through Alaska’s fjords was instantly fulfilled. We cruised past Bear Glacier and around the rocky shores of Chavel Island, eventually rounding Aialik Cape to the Chiswell Islands, where we watched sea lions basking on the rocks and tufted puffins darting through the air.

By mid-afternoon, we anchored in the emerald-green waters of McMullom Cove. To make the most of the remaining daylight, Daniel unloaded the kayaks for a self-guided paddle on the bay. As we paddled in the golden light, curious sea lions watched us watching them. As the sun dipped behind the surrounding mountains, we returned to shore to find Daniel had not only pitched our tents but also begun preparing dinner.

We shared a campfire feast on the pebble beach to finish an already incredible first day. Steak sizzling over open flames, crispy potatoes, and fresh veggies were just what we needed to refuel. As the stars twinkled above, we shared stories, roasted marshmallows for s’mores, and enjoyed being in the middle of nowhere. This was exactly the Alaskan adventure we were searching for.

We woke on day two to the aroma of pancakes and freshly brewed coffee wafting through the crisp morning air. Captain Daniel, who had slept aboard Cat2Fold, was already hard at work whipping up breakfast (complete with real maple syrup and mangoes). As the wind had abandoned us today, we left our tents behind for the day and motored toward the Holgate Glacier.

As we approached Holgate, the temperature dropped noticeably, and the waters turned into a maze of floating icebergs. Daniel expertly navigated through the icy labyrinth, giving us plenty of time to snap photos, sip hot tea, and layer up against the glacier’s natural air-conditioning. “Glaciers act like giant coolers,” Daniel explained, “as air flows over them, it chills and drifts toward the ocean.” His spare jackets came in handy as we edged closer to Holgate’s towering ice wall. I was surprised by the vibrant colors and the textures of the ice, examining the details of the crevasses as we moved closer. Sitting in silence, we heard nothing but the creaks and moans as the glacier moved at a snail's pace.

Next came Aialik Glacier. At 400 feet (122m) high at the face, this is the largest glacier in Aialik Bay. After a safety briefing from Daniel about keeping a good distance from the glacier and icebergs, which have the potential to flip, he unloaded the kayaks, and we eagerly hopped in. The glacier's sheer size left us speechless as we paddled through calm, icy waters, maneuvering around icebergs.

The sound of the glacier calving occasionally broke the silence. Bus-sized blocks of ice broke off the glacier, but it was only seconds later you would hear the thunderous crack and splash. This delay between sight and sound helped our brains comprehend the sheer size of the face. Icebergs and spotted seals lounging on ice sheets bobbed on the waves that followed each calving event, but it was just a mere ripple by the time it reached our kayak.

Spotted seals would quietly peek their heads above the surface. They were close enough to satisfy their curiosity but kept a cautious distance.

The experience was made even more intimate as we were the only kayakers there. This afternoon was more than the highlight of our Happy Puffin tour or even our Alaskan journey – this stood out as the best moment of our entire year-long travels through the US and Canada.

I still don't know how long we were out there for as time seemed to stand still, but Daniel sounded the horn when it was time to go. We didn't once feel rushed, as he was happy to work around our interests instead of sticking to a rigid itinerary. That was really a special and rare thing to find.

The afternoon brought rain and fog as we set course for Bear Cove in hopes of spotting whales. They remained hidden, but we discovered a collection of photogenic sea stacks and a small group of playful sea otters before returning to our camp. Back at McMullom Cove, the weather nudged us inside Cat2Fold’s cozy canopy, where couches and a dining table awaited us alongside another delicious dinner prepared by Daniel.

Our final evening in the Alaskan wilderness was another highlight. Daniel provided plenty of food, wine, and beer, but John and I decided this was the perfect time to open a bottle of Alaskan-made mead we picked up at the Viking Meadery in Haines—a must-try if you visit—and exchanged stories from our travels.

As we packed up camp and motored back toward Resurrection Bay, our spirits were high, and our hopes were set on one final encounter: spotting a whale in Kenai Fjords. After scoping the distance with binoculars for a good hour, Daniel caught a glimpse of a blowhole in the distance. We motored closer, only to lose sight of our elusive friend. But Alaska had one last trick up its sleeve. Out of nowhere, the humpback whale breached just yards from our boat while feeding. Every one of us was left speechless and overflowing with gratitude.

This wasn’t a luxury cruise; it was a journey that promised camping-level comforts. Yet, in its simplicity, we found a beauty that was anything but basic. We camped under the stars, cooked over campfires, and kayaked through icy waters. Our 3-day catamaran cruise reminded us that the best adventures are those that leave you a little dirty and a lot richer in experiences.

Happy Puffin Tours doesn't do tours as you know them; they provide an authentic Alaskan experience. Here's why I highly recommend them, especially if you're looking to ditch the crowds and embrace the wilderness:

• All-Inclusive (But Not in a Glitzy Way!) They take care of everything, from accommodations and meals to kayaking gear and expert guidance. This isn't about cocktails and white tablecloths; it's about hearty meals and shared adventures.
• Small Group: The small group setting allowed for a more intimate and personalized experience. We felt like we were exploring with friends, not just on a tour.
• Expert Guides: Daniel's knowledge of the area, his passion for wildlife, and his dedication to providing a safe and enjoyable tour were truly exceptional.
• Unforgettable Moments: From sailing past glaciers to kayaking with seals and witnessing whales breaching, Happy Puffin Tours delivered a non-stop stream of unforgettable moments.